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By July 23, 2012 Read More →

Bug out vehicles – a new way to use an old idea

Modification for Mileage

This past Father’s Day got me thinking about some of the things my “pops” used to come up with in the vein of energy conservation.  He fancied himself an inventor and used to come up with some unique ideas or unique ways of using old ideas.  Although his ideas were for energy conservation, I think that the current climate of financial strain might call for some of these ideas to get another look again today when we are all thinking about how to get the most out of the money we have in order to be able to spend more on our prepping.  Some of his ideas would apply directly to bugging out and supplying energy for our families, while we are in our remote locations etc.  Sadly “pops” isn’t with us today, but I did review this information with my mother, who was there to witness all of it.

In 1979/1980, during the  fuel shortages, my “pops” was working on ways to conserve gasoline.  One of the things he came up with was a new way to use an old idea.  Apparently farmer’s invented the idea as a way to conserve fuel for their tractors in the field.  The idea is VERY easy to put into practice.  Although I do not have his original set of plans on how to accomplish this, I can lay out the basic idea here for you.
First, I need to include a couple of cautionary notes.  I recommend that if you have a newer vehicle – you do NOT want to change anything that would nullify your vehicles warranty.  Also, there have been significant changes to carburetors and how they can be adjusted to take advantage of the fuel system.  Essentially you would have to “break” your carburetor to adjust it to the leaner fuel.  This is perfect for my bug out vehicle as the original tests were performed on a 78 Chevy blazer (and 100′s of other vehicles), and my bug out vehicle is an older model Chevy Blazer also.  During the testing phase of developing this idea – many people reported getting 200 mpg and more.  Most people reported at least doubling their gas mileage.
Here it is… in a sentence.  The idea is to vaporize the fuel before it gets to the carburetor.

To do this, run a fuel line along the exhaust system to preheat it before it hits the carburetor.  That’s it.  Of course there are finer points to consider.  One that seemed to make a lot of difference was the angle the fuel line was going when it delivered the “vapor” to the carburetor.  You would want it almost straight up and down at the carburetor.  This allows the gasoline that has not been vaporized to trickle back down the fuel line and be re-vaporized – you get 100% use of all the fuel this way.

my old carb

 

It takes some time to play with the system making adjustments until you get at least double your present mileage.  Do NOT use copper line for your fuel line – as the heating and cooling will cause the copper line to create small holes, that could be extremely dangerous.

 

I would like to hear from those of you that try this, to see what kind of mpg you get.  This is definitely a do at your own risk project, but if you use your heads it is very easy.  Like I said right up front – the farmers have been using this method since tractors were invented.  I don’t recall ever hearing a story about a farmer blowing himself up in the field by doing so.  It isn’t dangerous if you use your head.  You also end up with more power and performance, another good idea when you are bugging out and the gas stations may be few and far between – if they exist at all when the time comes.  Fuel injected cars need not apply.
On a side note, I was 3 and 4 years old when this was going on and I remember bits and pieces.  When my mom brought up the idea for the story my exact words, half  jokingly, after receiving her email were, “Thanks mom, this is the crap that gets people ‘disappeared’”,  and she said. “Oh yeah, we got plenty of death threats back then”.  That just made me want to write it all the more.  Hope you can find the correct combination, good luck and stay safe.
Do a Startpage search for: “old farmer’s method for vaporizing gas and increasing mileage”, there’s lots of additional info there. Lot’s of folks will say it’s B.S., I know better, I saw it done.


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11 Comments on "Bug out vehicles – a new way to use an old idea"

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  1. 'Jesse Banke says:

    not so sure about all that, but you can buy vaporizers for about $100. but really if your going to spend over $100 on your car to make it more fuel effiecient, then go ahead and buy the LP conversion…. mind ya this only works for Carborated vehicles. Any fuel injected cars, I have no clue about…. but anyways, get a DOT approved LP tank($25-$200), install it and run 1/2″ hose/pipe ($20-$70) to a LP vaporizer ($50-$200), then hunt down a regulator that is applicable to your engine ($100-$250) run a pipe into the side of your carborator

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  3. Ron says:

    Okay, I’m going to voice my opinion here. Mind you this is only my opinion (and the experience of a 60 year old man). I’ve always done all my own mechanic work and have worked on cars, trucks, tractors, heavy equipment, and stationary machinery. It has been my experience, that when gas becomes vaporized “in the fuel line”, it’s called a “vapor lock”. A vapor lock causes the engine to stop running. The carburetor is designed to work on liquid gasoline. The small valves, floats, and orifices work with liquid. The “vaporizers” mentioned work between the carburetor and the intake, not BEFORE the carburetor. I have worked on farms a large portion of my life also. I have never seen anything on a tractor or any other piece of farm machinery set up to vaporize gasoline prior to entering the carburetor. Diesel engines, on the other hand, often do employ using the exhaust to pre-heat (not vaporize) the fuel because it can gel in cold weather. Please, do not take this as an attack on your idea. I would just hate to think of someone doing this and sitting in a ticking time bomb, all because I didn’t say what I think. So, if anyone wants to pursue this technique, I suggest lots of research and come to your own conclusions. Here’s a good place to start: go to the search engine of your choice, and type in “define vapor lock”. Be safe.

  4. Alive14 says:

    I would just hate to think of someone……  i meant to say

    • Ron says:

      Okay, I checked all the links you posted. One was about a very old design for an almost unknown carburetor. Interesting, but nothing to do with pre-heating gasoline before it enters the carburetor. All the other links talk about vaporizing the gasoline AFTER it leaves the carburetor. This is a very well known method of increasing fuel efficiency. Some methods work better than others. But not a single one talks about vaporizing the gasoline BEFORE it enters the carburetor. As I said, when gasoline is heated to vapor prior to reaching the carburetor, it’s known as a “vapor lock” and causes the engine to stall. The engine stalls becasue it doesn’t get any gas. The reason being because the carburetor is designed to meter the fuel in its’ liquid form. If the method you advise worked, then we would be able to connect a tank of propane to the gas line and run it through the carburetor. But that won’t work either, because it is not a liquid, but a gas. In order to use a non-liquid gas (like propane, or vaporized gasoline), you must replace the carburetor with a vapor metering device. A very standard practice when converting an engine from gasoline to propane. Please, re-read your articles. Look for anything that states that the gasoline is vaporized in the gas line PRIOR to entering the carburetor and bring it to my attention. I would love to read it.

  5. Michael says:

    Preheating will help the fuel vaporize. However, that will cause the fuel to explode, rather than have a controlled burn (destroying the engine). Engines use the fuel in the droplet form to control the burn. And, the 60 year old gent is correct, if you vaporize it before it reaches the jets, you will get vapor lock; a very common problem for fuel injected aircraft engines.
    If you want fuel economy, over pressure you tires as part of your escape plan. If you have a 4 bbl, shut off the sedondaries.

    Pre-cylinder vaporization is an “Old Wives Tail” that is slowy dieing. Also stay away from the ‘stick in your intake’ devices. They only limit your power.

  6. Alive14 says:

    You will vapor lock if the carb is running how the carb is set up to run. I said in the article you would have to “break” your carb to run this at all. I have and old Edelbrock copy of a Quadrajet we’re experimenting with now. I am also going to post a couple of e mails from my mom, ’cause she was there through it all. The explosion part is how I looked at it also, like a very miniature fuel air bomb, in each cylinder, but I think that’s the point to get way more yield for way less input.  

    • Ron says:

      I understand that you really, really want your Dad to be right. To be the underdog that was never recognized. But that just isn’t going to make the facts go away. As I said, all your links talk about vaporizing the gasoline AFTER it leaves the carburetor. And you can do this. It has minimal effect, but the vehicle will run that way. But, there is no amount of adjusting a carburetor that will make it utilize vaporized gasoline coming in through the gas line. As I said, if you could do that, you would be able to route propane vapor the same way, but it will not work. You must replace the carburetor with a vapor metering device. When a “vapor lock” occurs, It disrupts the fuel delivery to the carburetor. Until the vapor is re-condensed or removed, the engine will not get any gasoline, starving it for fuel and causing it to stop running. This was a common problem in hot weather with many older vehicles. A lot of work and redesign was done to make sure the gas lines were placed well away from the exhaust and heat producing areas. Please, read the information in the link I’m posting. Talk to some race car mechanics that deal with these problems all the time. Talk to some airplane mechanics. They also know about this. 
      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_lock

    • Ron says:

      I’ve read everything at the links that you posted. The first one talks about a method of vaporizing the gasoline and adding water, then injecting it into the intake AFTER the carburetor.  
        The second one is an update on the first and talks about a system that starts the engine running on a standard carburetor and then switches over to a specially built injection system (bypassing the carburetor) that utilizes vaporizing the fuel and adding water, but NOT through the carburetor.
        The third link is a collection of claims and conspiracies about the government and the oil companies hiding better ways to run our vehicles. Whether true or false, none of them prove or suggest that you can superheat gasoline to the vapor state IN a fuel line and run it through a carburetor.
        I’m sorry, but I do not see anything in any of the links that you have posted here that shows any evidence that you can vaporize gasoline in the gas line and feed it through the carburetor without creating a vapor lock that will stall the engine. Every single link you have posted (other than the conspiracy link) talks about vaporizing the gasoline, then delivering it to the intake in some way other than through the gas line going into the carburetor. And they all do this because even these guys know it won’t work any other way.
        I’m honestly not trying to argue with you here. I’m trying to point out the problem with your assumptions. Are you willing to bet your life that this will work? Are you willing to bet the life of someone you’ve never met that reads your post and sets up their Bug Out Vehicle as you suggest? What if they do and it fails when they need it the most. Will you be there to bail them out?
        We all need to share information. But we better make sure that what we are sharing is actually usable info and not old wives tales that could at worst kill someone, or at best be a waste of time and resources.
        Namaste



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