Full Gut Bugout: Why Trapping Is Essential for Long-Term Survival
5 min read
We’ve all seen those “survival” shows, claiming that one dude can wildly run around the woods, procuring all the necessities of sustenance through fashioning a makeshift spear from an old boat propeller and skewering a 10-point buck …but entertaining as that is, it just doesn’t work like that.
Securing meat sources is not one of those parts of bugout life you simply leave to chance “because we saw them do it on TV”, so thinking that we’ll be able to remain fat and happy only off an abundance of hares might not be productive. And, even if this were possible for the best of the backwoods experts, the rest of us need to consider the fact that we may not be that good. Being forced to learn such a craft during a survival situation is certainly not an optimal scenario.
However, even thinking that we’ll be able to make the tree line by the crack of dawn, carrying only ye olde’ Ruger 10/22, and taking home enough meals to feed the mobile homestead may probably be a disappointing fallacy, as well. Depending on where you live and how abundant game may be in your area, there’s a good chance you’re going to have to throw out all the stops in your quest to feed you and especially your loved ones.
This is why learning the ancient art, wilderness methods, and backwoods traditions of trapping should be one of your top priorities. That is, if you want to sustain yourself on more than just the MREs you brought along for the ride.
Trapping Depends on Your Kit
It should be said right off the bat that not every type of bugout bag requires a comprehensive trapping kit. In fact, you might even be doing more harm than good if you load up your 72-hour emergency bag with heavy traps, depending on your fitness level and skill.
The reason I would not ordinarily advocate bringing along a long-term trapping kit in your 72-hour bag is simply because of the philosophy behind the scenario. Your 72-hour bag is simply meant for a temporary survival situation, in which you are hoping to be found and rescued shortly thereafter. Carrying along a large trapping kit doesn’t make sense, and that weight would better serve you if it were replaced by medical supplies, food, and signaling options.
However, that’s not to say that a modestly small trapping kit isn’t worth the weight entirely. Though, snares are considered a ‘low-probability’ trap, meaning that it is unlikely you’ll snag Peter Rabbit with one…if you set 20, you might just snag his brother too.
The strength of using lightweight snares is that these traps are nothing but rigged metal wires or cables (depending on what cable-weight suits your strategy). This shouldn’t take up large amounts of space and won’t weigh you down. In addition, they can also be used for other applications.
In the event that you lose your cordage, snares would do just fine in a pinch. They can be great for making shelter, trip cords, hafting, and if you were good enough to bring only stainless steel containers, you can use snares to hang your water bottle over the fire for boiling and cooking.
The weakness of using snares is their tendency to serve as a ‘one-time-use-only’, kind of trap. If the wrong critter happens to wander into the snare, which was set to catch a meal half its size, then you can pretty much say goodbye to that setup. Especially in freezing temperature scenarios, snares can even become brittle. When that happens, all bets are off.
Long-Term Sustenance and Heavier Traps
While snares are a great way to go in a short-term scenario, your long-term strategy should include substantially more trapping gear than that. Remember, even if you brought along 30 snares, depending on the kind of game wandering through your area (which isn’t always possible to know off the bat), you might tear up all your snares within a week.
One of my favorite kinds of traps is the Conibear, which is considered a ‘body grip’ trap. Fortunately for those of us who are lovers of the backwoods and of the creatures who dwell therein, Conibear traps offer one of the most humane methods of the craft, offering almost a total likelihood of instant dispatch for the critter. Simply put, it wanders into the trap, trips it, and our furry MRE wakes up in small game heaven.
In addition, these traps are considered a ‘high probability’ trap, meaning that if something wanders into it – well, then that critter’s goose is definitely cooked. Unlike snares, where the animal has a fairly high chance of escaping (or being taken by a hawk, who’s probably laughing all the way back to its nest), Conibear traps will kill instantly, and secure the animal until you come and harvest.
It is usually recommended that you carry an assortment of #110, #120, and #220 Conibear traps, as each number indicates its size and spring-strength. The smaller #110’s are usually good for little critters, such as squirrels and rabbits, but the heftier #220’s will even snag a beaver. Strategize accordingly, but be aware that the bigger the trap, the harder it snaps, which increases your likelihood of broken fingers and lots of cussing–if handled carelessly, that is.
Also, bear in mind that if you bring along a trapping kit for sustained wilderness self-reliance, then you will need to be mentally and physically prepared to carry the additional weight. While the #110’s are a pound, and #220’s only weigh in at 2lbs, that weight can add up quickly.
Trapping Beauty
In this glorious age of modern trapping methods and gear, we now have traps that are rather easy to set, will last two decades if maintained, and are far more reliable than in the olden days. Of course, we’ve all heard the legends of Davy Crockett-types, ramblin’ through the woods with a musket and moccasins–but even these guys trapped to survive and make a living.
Simply put, trapping offers the survivalist, backwoodsman, bushcrafter, and explorer the means by which to hunt… without being present. Set enough traps (the proper way of course), and you’ve increased your chances of harvesting meat from the land. Do this while hunting or fishing, and you’ve increased your chances even higher. If you don’t use traps and rely only on hunting, then you’ve left your survival to the hard chance that game will just so happen to blunder into your sights–within range–and present you with a somewhat clean shot.
By the way, it might also be worthy to mention: traps will kill silently. Food for thought.
The understanding behind trapping is that it’s based on the concept of residual returns through increasing your chances, elevating your probability of acquiring meat sources. The more traps you bring, the better your chances. If frontiersmen thought this was important, then it must have been. Of course, I’d trust a Davy Crockett over “survival dude” any day of the week and twice on Sunday.
Good article. Traps and snares are “force multipliers” – they are working while you are sleeping, chopping wood, or working your garden.
Into the get home bag went a roll of picture wire, it is tough multi-strand wire making it perfect for rabbits and squirrels. The more snares you place the more likely you will be successful.
A touch of salt makes the critters more palletable.
It is a way of obtaining protein with out attracting the attention of others.
Trapping is a romantic idea. I find it interesting that many people talk about trapping if it is easy. You talk about probabilities of increasing your meat source and the more traps the better the probability. I trap as a hobby and sell my wares at the rendezvous and other places as the opportunities arise. As an experienced trapper I find it difficult at times to catch an animal when the environment has been disturbed by human activity. Don’t get me wrong I can catch my target animal 95% of the time first try first night. However, there are many things to consider. You need to know the target animal, have the appropriate lours and bates for the target animal, and understand the animals natural and unnatural activities. Once a proper set has been made you can walk away with confidence knowing you will have a meal come from that set.
There are several different trap sets that can be made but it depends on the trap you are using and the area you are trapping and the target animal. Snares are very effective and very discreet. I use them in the city often and have great success with them. But you talk as though they are a hit and miss low probability trap. I trap most of my fox with snares. The snare is a very misunderstood trap and should one ever become familiar with it they will have a new best friend in trapping.
The leg hold is the trap the mountain men used to trap mostly beaver with. They would have about six traps each and they would set them and collect the animals the next morning. They are very effective and if you set them right you will not have to dispatch the animal when you arrive to collect them. There are many ways to set the traps and many strategies and target animals to catch with them. The size of the trap depends on the application and target animal. It is possible to catch a coyote with a #1 ½ or 2 but a #3 is best and you may want to weld your links shut and stake them with 18 inch crossed stakes .
The conibear trap is a good one but if you are using a 220 to catch beaver then you are only going for small cheese. A 330 is what I recommend but you will only catch one beaver with it if you do not know what you are doing. Beaver are very smart and all it takes is once and you have taught them what to look out for. Leg holds are best and better with drown sets. Learn the bucket set and then you can always use some variant in the wild to catch the target animal.
The one thing that makes trapping the most difficult and the low probability that most people experience is the fact that you smell like a human. You need to understand how to remove the sent from the trap you have handled and from the area after setting it. If you think an animal will stick it head through a ring of stink or walk down a path that smells like a human then you may as well not bring the traps with you because you are your own worst enemy. It takes years of practice to get half as good as I am and I am not very good when you stack me up against my buddies. Trapping is a romantic idea, but a lot of work.
I have trapped for many years as a younger man so I still have a good supply of traps for long term survival.In my 72 Hour bag I carry a small fish spear, 3 heavier snares, a trot line already set up and 3 weighted treble hooks with a 550 cord throwing line along with the usual picture wire snares. This kit weights about a pound. I have also used the large Rat Traps to take up to rabbit and medium size mink. I spray the trap with flat camo paint, drill a hole 1 inch in at each end and use 1 1/2 inch Drywall screws to attach them to trees or logs, these can be used vertical as well as horizontal. Good trapping.